Ghana changed my life! I often get asked what my favorite trip is, and hands down Ghana wins. Preparing for Ghana, I was told to have patience as Americans would have to learn how to deal with Ghanaian culture. I did have my fair share of interestingly challenging experiences with restaurants, drivers, Ubers, event security, hotel staff, and our house’s loss of power, but in the end, Ghana still wins.
In this Inn Review, I’ll summarize the best experiences Ghana offers and give some travel tips along the way. So what is Year of Return?
With the guidance of several collaborators, the Ghana Tourism Authority created the Year of Return initiative, which openly invited African Diasporans to invest in the continent by traveling to Ghana. Positioned a birth-right trip for those within the Global African communities, the initiative marked 400 years since the first enslaved Africans arrived to Jamestown, Virginia in August 1619.
The financial contribution estimates are under scrutiny after the Ministry of Tourism reports a $1.9 billion revenue contribution from this campaign. There are a few who wonder just where all the money has gone. The Ministry did confirm a total of 750,000 visitors in 2019 following the Year of Return marketing campaign, which resulted in an estimated spending of $2500 per person for accommodations, transportation, food, beverage, and entertainment. Source: Ghana Web
This was my first time in Ghana, and as a person of Haitian descent, when I landed in Ghana it felt like I had been there before. Everyone, and I mean everyone, looked like me. It provided me a sense of comfort upon arrival to see so many people there for the same reasons as me. Keep reading to learn about the details!
The Details:
I knew by early summer I would be traveling to Ghana for the holiday season, and reflecting now I wish I would have bought my flight at that moment.
Tip 1: The flights do not get cheaper over time. There will be minimal rate variance in pricing as the plane begins to fill, so purchase early, and get insurance.
As the trip began, many people had issues with airlines losing their bags and cancelling connecting flights. I recommend booking as early as possible with an airline that has a good reputation history.
Things you need to do before Ghana:
Ghana visitation visa (apply at least one month in advance)
Yellow fever shot (must get at least 10 days before arrival to Ghana)
Book reliable accommodations early
Think about the type of accommodations you require. Do you want a house or hotel? If you plan to rent a vacation home, I highly recommend verifying the host has a backup generator; if not, do not book. Power outages can happen, especially if the home has a pre-paid meter for energy. My recommendation for verification is to have a WhatsApp video call with the host long before arrival. During the call, get a tour of the home to ensure the home meets your standards, or you’ll end up getting a last minute hotel like I did.
Secure a dependable driver
The Year of Return caused a surplus of visitors that created unimaginable traffic; routes that were typically 15 mins took almost an hour due to congestion. When booking transportation, work with someone who is somewhat flexible and professional. Unfortunately, in my personal experience my group had to let go of our driver who became aggressive after my group challenged his requests to earn the same daily compensation but change his working hours to an earlier finish time.
Things To Do:
Afrochella:
One of the major events happening in Ghana was Afrochella, a music festival originally conceptualized four years ago and brought to fruition in 2017. In just two short years, it amassed a reputation as the event to attend bringing in over 10,000 attendees. The event had live art created by local artists, Ghanaian Jollof made on sight for purchase, plenty Instagram worthy spaces to document the day, and of course musical performances. Attendees had two options when attending Afrochella: VIP and general admission, which both provided valuable experiences.
Tip 2: Purchase VIP every time - it’s worth it!
Accra Arts Center
The Accra Regional Center for Culture, also known as the “The Arts Center”, was heaven! I found just about everything I needed there from African fashion clothing, woven Kente cloth, sculptures, waist beads, bags, Shea Butter, and accessories.
While visiting the Arts Center, we received drumming lessons from a local shop owner. Check out the video to the left to see the lesson in action!
We also received an unforgettable performance. Check that out to the right.
The Arts Center is located right next to the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and the Kwame Nkrumah Museum. Spend your day experiencing and learning Ghanaian culture in these three places.
Cape Coast
Before entering 2020, a trip to the Gold Coast was a must! The drive from Accra to Cape Coast takes about three hours. Prepare to make it a day trip; bring water and snacks to keep you going throughout the day.
Visiting the Cape Coast Slave Castle can evoke intense emotions; the experience forces you to face hard truths. There are several castles on the Gold Coast; Cape Coast Castle is one of forty. It was originally a trading post built by the Portuguese and later expanded by the Swedish.
The grounds of the castle will give you chills. The tour takes you through the onsite court room, the Governor’s quarters, the male and female dungeons, the torture dungeons and the '“Door of No Return.” Below, I highlight a few significant parts of the tour.
Slave Dungeons
The male and female dungeons together housed well over 1000 slaves. The male dungeon contained five dark chambers, and the female dungeon had two chambers. During our tour they demonstrate just how dark, hot and inhumane the dungeons were. We walked the chambers where our ancestors were crammed and shackled together. The grounds of the dungeons were bumpy; our tour guide informed us that we were over aged feces, blood, food, and bodily remains that became apart of the ground. Above the dungeons sat a church, and our tour guide recited this quote I will never forget:
When the missionaries came to Africa, they had the Bible, and we had the land. They said, 'Let us pray.' We closed our eyes. When we opened them, we had the Bible, and they had the land. - Desmond Tutu
It felt eerie to me that they placed the dungeon underneath the church, force fed westernized religion to them sub-consciously and leveraged religion as a way to manipulate them. Check out the video clip above from within the dungeon.
The Door of No Return
The last part of the tour took place at the ‘Door of No Return’, the final exit point where slaves were forced to board the slave ships. Today, on the outside of the Door of No Return sit fishermen preparing to sail, children playing in the water, and people selling fresh fruits and water. It is sobering to think about how different this same shore was just 400 years ago. Millions of our ancestors died before getting to this door, and millions died after walking through this door. Some were thrown overboard due to the heavy weight of the boats; some jumped overboard rather than travel to an unknown land or become enslaved; and one woman was even thrown overboard due to the discovery of her pregnancy (a result of rape), which made her considered to be of no use. Without a doubt, the transatlantic slave trade was a genocide that still impacts the African diaspora today. Check out this video of our incredible tour guide, Kwesi, explaining the significance of this door.
The Door of Return
The Door of Return received its name on Ghana’s first Emancipation Day on August 1, 1998, where the Ghanaian government held a ceremony titled the “Great Homecoming”. Two descendants of the slave trade, Madam Crystal from Jamaica and Mr. Samuel Carson from New York, had their remains brought to Accra where their caskets were brought in through the Door of Return into the castle, and a ceremony was held in their honor. In the end, they were reburied in Ghana. See this video for a welcome to all those within the diaspora who are encouraged to come back home.
Hamamat SHEA BUTTER MUSEUM and spa
After a long day at the castle, the next day I focused on having a calm and relaxing New Years Eve before the nights mayhem. My group and I found the Shea Butter Museum and Spa, and it was a must book. Owned by Hamamat Montia, a Ghanaian native entrepreneur and a woman, I knew I had to support. I definitely recommend a visit here when in Accra; it was one of the best massages I have ever had, all done with shea butter sourced from Hamamat’s village in Ghana.
V for Vanity SHow
The perfect place to visit to get your flicks off! The V for Vanity Show is interactive; visitors walk into different spaces to experience a variety of art installations. This year the space had a neon lights theme. According to its Facebook page, the concept behind the neon light is to:
“Illuminate the African progression from continuous subjugation and persecution to emancipation and greatness. Neon lights will be used as the primary vessel to deliver ten interactive art installations, meticulously designed to engage and educate the audience on African culture and history.”
Check out my shots below:
NIght life
Accra has an incredibly vibrant night life with a great mix of hip hop and Afro beats music. The events were predominantly outside. My favorite venues were Bloom Bar, Polo Beach Club, Twist and a specially curated party by PVO in collaboration with Afrochella and The R&B House Party. These events and venues are a must see when visiting Ghana for New Year celebrations. Check out images from the event below.
the culture:
As I mentioned before, my Ghanaian friends told me to prepare myself. As New Yorkers, we move with an extreme sense of urgency; Accra is not the same. While I was mildly offended by the warning because I consider myself a cultured traveler, I appreciated the heads up. When I arrived, I completely understood the disclaimer; Uber drivers will directly tell you they do not want to drive you to your destination. Restaurants can take longer than normal but have the nerve to taste so good. When shopping, especially at an open market, be prepared to bargain with the seller.
Tip 3: One American dollar is equivalent to roughly 5.6 Ghanaian cedi - be mindful of that when purchasing items and considering their value.
When traveling, I have learned to get comfortable with the uncomfortable. Expect anything and just be prepared. My hope for Ghana is that tourism continues to grow, that black people come Africa and learn more about themselves in the process.
To the people of Ghana I say “Medaasi”. I felt so at home and cannot wait to return!